How to Hang Wallpaper in 8 Steps: DIY Guide

How to Hang Wallpaper in 8 Steps: A Complete DIY Guide

Hanging wallpaper doesn’t require professional expertise or years of experience. With the right approach, tools, and patience, homeowners can achieve professional-quality results that transform any room. This comprehensive guide walks you through the eight essential steps to successfully hang wallpaper, from initial planning through final trimming.

Step 1: Plan Your Layout and Establish Plumb Lines

Before hanging a single strip of wallpaper, proper planning is crucial for achieving balanced, visually appealing results. The layout process begins by identifying the dominant design element in your wallpaper pattern. Cut a short strip of wallpaper and position the dominant element over the midpoint of your wall section. This ensures that pattern elements are centered rather than awkwardly split across walls or corners.

Mark the wall precisely at the paper’s leading edge—this is the edge against which the next strip will hang. Using a 4-foot level, draw a plumb line at that mark. This vertical line becomes your reference guide for all subsequent strips. To estimate seam locations around the entire room, cut two additional short pieces of wallpaper and temporarily paste them edge-to-edge on the wall. Mark where each leading edge meets the wall, and continue this process around the room, pulling up and re-adhering the strips as you progress. This dry-run technique prevents costly mistakes and helps you visualize how patterns will align throughout the space.

Once you’ve completed your layout assessment, measure the wall height at the plumb line. Cut the first full-length strip with sufficient overhang to place your dominant element at the midpoint mark. For solid-color wallpaper, leave 1 inch of overhang at both the top and bottom. This extra material provides flexibility for alignment and precise trimming later.

Step 2: Prep the Paper with Paste Application

Proper paper preparation significantly impacts the success of your wallpaper installation. The process differs depending on whether you’re using pre-pasted or unpasted wallpaper.

For unpasted wallpaper: Roll out the first strip face-down on a 6-foot-long work table. Using a 3/8-inch-nap paint roller, apply a generous, even coat of paste all the way to the paper’s edges. Consistency is critical—thin spots will cause the paper to lift later, while excessive paste creates messy cleanup and poor adhesion.

After applying paste, fold over both ends of the strip gently, being careful not to crease the paper, so they meet in the middle. This process, known as “booking,” allows the adhesive to activate and the paper to relax. Make sure the paper’s edges are exactly aligned so that no pasted surface is exposed. Let the booked paper stand for 3 to 5 minutes before hanging.

For pre-pasted paper: Loosely roll up a strip with the adhesive side out and immerse it in a trough of cold to lukewarm water—following the manufacturer’s specific instructions. Submerge the paper just until it’s thoroughly wet, but no longer, as over-saturation can cause damage. Book the paper the same way as unpasted wallpaper for 3 to 5 minutes before hanging.

Step 3: Hang the First Strip Correctly

Hanging the first strip sets the foundation for your entire project. Take the booked strip to the wall and carefully unfold it. Apply the top half first, aligning one edge precisely with the plumb line you established in Step 1.

For solid-color paper, overlap the ceiling or crown molding by 1 inch. For patterned paper, adjust the overlap as needed so that the main design element is centered on the midpoint of the wall section you’ve chosen.

Once the top half is positioned, smooth the edges using a damp sponge, then brush lightly from the center of the strip toward its edges. Gently pull a smoother across the paper to eliminate wrinkles and anchor it to the wall. Never push the smoother—pulling motions prevent wrinkles and displaced paste.

Next, unfold the strip’s lower half. Align and smooth it using the same techniques, overlapping the baseboard as needed. Take your time with this first strip; precision here ensures all subsequent strips align properly.

Step 4: Trim the Strip at the Ceiling

Clean trimming at the ceiling and baseboard creates a professional, finished appearance. Hold a sharp razor knife almost parallel to the wall and trim the excess paper. Guide the blade with a 6-inch putty knife to prevent tearing and ensure straight, clean lines.

After trimming, wipe any adhesive off the paper’s face with a wet sponge, pushing lightly toward the edges. Clean the woodwork and ceiling with the damp sponge as well, removing any paste residue that could attract dust or create staining.

Measure, cut, and hang each subsequent strip, sliding them up or down on the wall to align the pattern and butt seams tightly with no overlaps. Consistent pattern matching requires careful attention; take time to adjust each strip before smoothing and securing it permanently.

Step 5: Navigate Inside Corners Successfully

Inside corners present unique challenges because walls are rarely perfectly plumb. Measure from the corner to the top, middle, and bottom of the last-pasted strip. For out-of-plumb walls, add 1/8 inch to the largest measurement. Using a level, trim a dry strip to this width, cutting the edge that will meet the corner.

Hang the paper so the just-cut edge turns the corner and extends onto the adjacent wall. Then, position the adjoining strip with its edge inside the corner, overlapping the previous strip. Align the patterns carefully to maintain visual continuity.

Mark where the leading edge lands and draw a plumb line. Using this line as a guide, hang the strip to ensure it remains vertical on the new wall despite the corner irregularities.

Step 6: Handle Outside Corners Properly

Outside corners require a different approach than inside corners. Trim the strip to wrap over the next wall by ¼ inch. Hang the next strip so it overlaps the previous piece but lands short of the corner. This technique prevents the paper from peeling if someone brushes against the corner accidentally.

Step 7: Address Windows, Doors, and Openings

For switch plates and outlets, cut a piece of wallpaper larger than the plate from the part of the pattern that matches the wall around the switch. Apply paste to the plate, then lay it face down on the wallpaper. Hold both on the wall and adjust the paper to match the surrounding pattern perfectly.

Turn the plate face down and cut off the corners 1/8 inch away from the plate edges. Wrap the paper over the plate and tape it on the back. Using a razor, cut out the switch or receptacle holes precisely, and make Xs at screw holes for easy reinstallation. Screw the plates back on the wall. Covering switch plates keeps the wallpaper pattern flow uninterrupted, creating a more professional, cohesive appearance.

Step 8: Hang Headers and Footers

Headers and footers—the paper above and below windows and above doorways—require careful measurement and plumb alignment. Measure, cut, and book each strip as you go. To keep these shorter pieces plumb, align each strip’s leading edge with a torpedo level for accuracy.

Hang, smooth, and trim as many headers and footers as needed without going past the end of the window or door casing. Then, hang a full-length strip of paper alongside the window or door by butting one edge of a dry, full-width scrap against the last header or footer and marking where its opposite edge lands.

With a level, draw a plumb line on that mark from floor to ceiling. Paste, book, and hang the full-length strip, adjusting it up or down as needed until the patterns match perfectly. When the patterns align, sponge and smooth each piece and trim off any overlap, maintaining consistency throughout the installation.

Essential Tools and Materials

Having the right tools makes wallpaper hanging significantly easier and produces better results:

• 4-foot or 6-foot level for establishing plumb lines
• 6-inch putty knife for guiding trim lines and tucking edges
• 3/8-inch-nap paint roller for even paste application
• Wallpaper smoother or felt brush for eliminating wrinkles
• Sharp razor knife for precise trimming
• Damp sponge for cleaning excess paste
• 6-foot work table for paper preparation
• Wallpaper paste (premixed or powder)
• Water trough for pre-pasted wallpaper
• Torpedo level for shorter sections
• Seam roller for closing and securing seams

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced DIYers can make errors that compromise their wallpaper installation. Avoid these common pitfalls:

• Skipping the plumb line: Relying on ceiling or baseboard lines can result in progressively crooked wallpaper
• Applying too much paste: Excess paste creates messy seams and weak adhesion
• Not booking paper long enough: Insufficient booking time prevents proper adhesive activation
• Pushing instead of pulling the smoother: This creates wrinkles and displaces paste
• Rushing seam closure: Taking time to properly close seams prevents them from opening later
• Over-soaking pre-pasted paper: This can damage delicate wallpaper
• Ignoring pattern alignment: Poor pattern matching creates an unfinished appearance

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How long should I book wallpaper before hanging?

A: Standard booking time is 3 to 5 minutes for most wallpapers. Always check your specific wallpaper’s label, as vinyl-coated coverings may require longer activation time than uncoated papers.

Q: What’s the best water temperature for pre-pasted wallpaper?

A: Use cold to lukewarm water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Never use hot water, as it can damage adhesives and paper fibers.

Q: How do I fix wallpaper bubbles after hanging?

A: Small bubbles can be eliminated by gently pulling the smoother from the center outward. For larger bubbles, carefully lift the paper, apply fresh paste, and re-smooth.

Q: Can I hang wallpaper over painted walls?

A: Yes, but the wall surface must be clean, dry, and properly prepared. Sand glossy paint slightly to improve adhesion.

Q: What should I do if seams start opening?

A: Properly closing seams during installation prevents this issue. Use a seam roller and work 3 inches in from the edge, then smooth the entire sheet immediately after hanging.

Q: Is paste-the-wall wallpaper easier for beginners?

A: Yes, paste-the-wall options eliminate the booking process and can be repositioned easily, making them excellent for first-time installers.